Ocmulgee Mounds National Historical Park ⓘ

Ocmulgee Mounds National Historical Park has an astonishing depth to its history. The land here has been occupied for more than 12,000 years by various cultures. The first people to this area where the Paleo Indians , who were nomads passing through the Macon Plateau as they hunted Ice Age megafauna. As the Ice Age receded and warmer climates penetrated the southeastern portion of North America, Archaic Indians began to utilize the Macon Plateau; hunting deer and fish and gathering nuts, berries, and roots. The Woodland Indians were the first to build semi-permanent villages in this area and grow sunflower seeds. After 900 CE a new culture arrived: the Mississippians . They were the ones that built the mounds that visitors can still experience to this day. The large village occupying this site eventually waned and the Lamar culture , 2 1/2 miles south, began. The Lamar culture thrived here until Hernando de Soto and other European explorers arrived around 1600. This exposure to foreigners left a legacy of depopulation among native inhabitants. The survivors and their descendants banded together to form groups that historically were known to the early English settlers as the Ochese Creeks and today are known as the Muscogee . The Muscogee (Creek) Nation of today call this land their ancestral homeland.

Tomochichi was a chief of the Yamacraw Indians and played an important role in Georgia’s creation. The Yamacraw Indian tribe was an assortment of Creeks created by Tomochichi. The tribe consisted of about 200 people who lived near the Savannah River. When James Oglethorpe arrived in 1733, Oglethorpe wanted to create good relations with the Natives, so he created trade between the Yamacraw. A year after Oglethorpe’s arrival to America, Tomochichi accompanied Oglethorpe back to England to meet English dignitaries. Tomochichi asked for education and fair trade for his people. After returning to the United States, Tomochichi and Oglethorpe joined together in a mission to determine the southern boundaries of Georgia Colony and to create better relations with the Spanish. In 1739, Tomochichi fell ill and passed away in his nineties. He left his wife and nephew in charge of his small tribe.

Mary was the daughter of an English trader and a Creek woman of the Wind Clan. She lived in the Creek village of Coweta (Lower Creek town) and in the colony of South Carolina. Mary spoke both Muscogee and English. In 1717 she married an English trader named John Musgrove and established a trading post on the Savannah River. Mary was also James Oglethorpe’s interpreter during the establishment of Georgia Colony. When John Musgrove died in 1735, Mary moved the trading post to the Yamacraw Bluff. The post became a center of trade between the English and Indians. In 1737 Mary married Jacob Matthew and they establish another trading post at Mount Venture on the Altamaha River. Just five years later, Matthew died and Mary married Reverend Thomas Bosomworth. Bosomworth was a Christian missionary, and together they traveled into Creek villages with messages from James Oglethorpe and the English king and brought back speeches from Creek leaders. They occasionally taught Christian missionaries in the Muscogee language, trying to create better relations between the English and the Creeks. Mary died on St. Catherine’s Island, Georgia sometime after 1763.

William was born in Coweta (Lower Creek town) to Captain William McIntosh, a Scotsman, and Senoya, a Creek woman of the Wind Clan. He was raised among the Creeks but spent time in Savannah, Georgia, where he learned English. McIntosh supported the idea of “civilizing” the Creeks through supporting the English way of life instead of keeping their traditional way of life. He supported General Andrew Jackson in the Creek War of 1813-1814. McIntosh helped with the United States victory at the Battle of Horsebend in Alabama where the Lower Creeks fought against the “Red Sticks.” The result of the victory forced both the Lower and Upper Creeks to sign a treaty to cede 22 million acres of land in Alabama and South Georgia to the government. By 1825 the government wanted all the Creek land in Georgia. McIntosh participated in the drafting and signing of the Treaty of Indian Springs of 1825. Unfortunately this led to his execution by a contingent of the Upper Creeks led by Chief Menawa.

In 1774, William Bartram, naturalist and botanist, followed the Lower Creek Trading Path from Augusta through this area. In his journal, he recorded this account of the Ocmulgee Old Fields: "On the heights of these low grounds are yet visible monuments, or traces, of an ancient town, such as artificial mounts or terraces, squares and banks, encircling considerable areas. Their old fields and planting land extend up and down the river, fifteen or twenty miles from this site. If we are to give credit to the account the Creeks give of themselves, this place is remarkable for being the first town or settlement, when they sat down (as they term it) or established themselves, after their emigration from the west..."

William Bartram observed that the Muscogee households consisted of up to four structures arranged around four sides of a square courtyard. The town square was at the center of the their social, political, and religious life. The town square consisted of four arbors, and in the middle was the sacred fire with four logs, where ceremonies were held. One of the major ceremonies that took place annually was the Green Corn Ceremony. The ceremony celebrated the new harvest and was used as a time to revitilize community ties.

During "The War Between the States", the newly-founded city of Macon was threatened with destruction not once, but twice when Union and Confederate forces met just across the river from the city. Both conflicts took place here on the grounds of Ocmulgee Mounds National Historical Park. Today, the Dunlap trail leads to one of the few surviving Civil War earthworks in Macon; a reminder of another time in history adding to the heritage that is Ocmulgee. Around 1856, Samuel F. Dunlap selected a hilltop in close proximity of Walnut Creek to build his house and establish a dairy farm. Little did he know that in 1864 the city of Macon would be sending small arms, cannon and supplies to the Confederate Army in Atlanta. In reality, the Southern forces were defeated by this late date, but there was still a lot of fight left in the South.The North needed decisive victories to bring the war to an end. Sherman's "March to the Sea" became a major factor in the ultimate outcome of the conflict. That march led Union forces to Macon.

On July 27, Major General William T. Sherman had sent 9,000 Union cavalrymen riding south in two columns. Their orders were to join forces at Lovejoy and wreck the vital Macon railroad that fed and supplied the Confederate army defending Atlanta. Major General George Stoneman led one of these columns through Covington and Monticello, intending to march down the east side of the Ocmulgee River before joining the other column led by McCook. To his surprise and dismay, Stoneman soon discovered there were no bridges along that muddy stretch of the Ocmulgee. Reluctant to rejoin Sherman without accomplishing anything, he continued south, hoping to capture Macon and perhaps even liberate the 35,000 Union soldiers imprisoned at Camp Oglethorpe and Andersonville. Union and Confederate forces first met at Macon on July 30, 1864, in an encounter called "The Battle of Dunlap Hill", better known as "The Stoneman Raid." Major General George Stoneman, already involved in the conquest of Georgia, saw potential for strengthening Union forces by freeing the men in these two Central Georgia prison camps. Upon reaching Macon, Stoneman occupied the Dunlap House , set up temporary entrenchment in the yard, and began to shell the city. But Stoneman didn't know that the city had advance warning of his arrival. On the morning of July 30th, Georgia's Governor Brown was in Macon conducting business with Confederate officers, Major General Howell Cobb and General Joseph E. Johnston. Due to an appeal by the governor, Macon was defended by swarms of Georgia reserves and militiamen commanded by Major General Howell Cobb. Unable to brush them aside in his attempted siege, Stoneman retreated northward. Early the next morning, his column collided with Confederate cavalry. After a day-long fight at the Battle of Sunshine Church, Stoneman and 700 of his men surrendered. The rest fled northward through Eatonton, Madison, High Shoals and Watkinsville. Stoneman's forces had been routed and he himself was imprisoned at Camp Oglethorpe and his men sent to Andersonville; the very prisons he had sought to liberate. The only lasting effect of "The Stoneman Raid" on Macon occurred when a Union cannonball, aimed at Confederate Treasurer William Butler Johnston's home, struck the home of Judge Asa Holt. Today, the Johnston-Hay House and the Cannonball House attracts visitors from all over the world.

The second military encounter between Union and Confederate forces near the city of Macon was also at the Dunlap Farm.This skirmish took place on November 20-21, 1864. The action was a diversionary ploy for the major troop movements of General Sherman's Union force through Middle Georgia. In October 1864, as a reaction to "The Stoneman Raid" and news of the destruction Federal troops had inflicted throughout Georgia, additional defense construction was made for the city of Macon. It is believed that the gun emplacement on the Dunlap Trail was built as a part of this additional defense system. But regardless of when the earthwork was constructed, its 12-pound Napoleon gun and 8 others played an important role in the "Battle of Walnut Creek." When Brigadier General Judson Kilpatrick and his men reached Macon, they were met by elements of Wheeler's Confederate Calvary made up of the 1st and 2nd Convalescent Regiments, the 24th Tennessee, Captain Albrough's command, Captain Atkins' company and nine cannons.

A Union calvaryman later explained: "The regiment was not engaged again until the arrival of the command at Macon... when during the demonstration made by General Kilpatrick... the regiment was ordered to make a saber-charge along the Clinton and Macon Road, and from which the enemy were firing. The distance to reach the guns was something over half a mile, along a road through deep woods, which concealed the enemy's guns and their works. "The regiment... charged along the road, reached the enemy's guns, which were in a redoubt, completely blocking the road, there being room only for two horses to enter the works abreast. In the rear of, and also extending from both flanks of the redoubt, were long lines of breastworks and rifle pits, filled with infantry. On the left of the road there was also a battery commanding the road and the point from which the regiment charged it. As the head of the column entered the redoubts, the first line of the enemy's infantry... seemed to be stampeded. The second line, however, were seen advancing from the woods... and seeing that the guns could not be removed, and that there was barely time to withdraw the regiment before the rebel infantry would be upon us, I ordered the column to retire under fire from enemy guns." In November of 1864, Sherman was well on his "March to the Sea" when Governor Joseph E. Brown decided to move the state's records to Macon to keep them safe. A legislature was seated in the old city hall from February 15 until March 11, 1865. "The Battle of Walnut Creek" was the last skirmish fought in the vicinity of Macon. The Union forces had been successfully driven away until the official surrender. On April 20, 1865, Major General Howell Cobb surrendered to Major General James H. Wilson, eleven days after Robert E. Lee surrendered to Ulysses S. Grant.

Today, the Dunlap Trail is a short, pleasant walk from the Ocmulgee Mounds National Historical Park's Visitor Center. At the end of the trail you will be able to see one of the few remaining Civil War earthworks in Middle Georgia. Although not open to the public, the adjacent Dunlap House was once occupied by Union soldiers. The Dunlap Mound was the "hill" for which Macon's first Civil War battle was named.

The largest dig ever conducted in this country occurred here at Ocmulgee and the surrounding area. Between 1933 and 1936, over 800 men in Roosevelt's Works Progress Administration (WPA), Civil Works Administration (CWA), Federal Emergency Relief Administration (ERA & FERA), and later the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) excavated under the direction of Dr. Arthur R. Kelly from the Smithsonian Institute. Kelly was the only archaeologist at the Ocmulgee camp and conducted evening training courses for the men. Hundreds of thousands of artifacts were discovered including pottery, pottery shards, metals, arrowheads, spear points, stone tools, pipes, bells, jewelry, seeds, bones, etc. –some of which are on display in the Ocmulgee Mounds National Historical Park's museum or stored in the museum curatorial. This dig helped piece together a timeline of people who lived on the Macon Plateau between 12,000 BCE and 1800 CE. Each of the major periods were represented here at Ocmulgee. Altogether, 2.5 million artifacts were found, with 800 men working at one time.

Large-scale archeological excavations at Ocmulgee Old Fields in Macon, Georgia began in December of 1933. The site was declared a National Monument in 1936. In 1937 the National Park Service, along with U.S. Congressman Carl Vinson, General Walter Harris, and Dr. Charles C.Harrold, completed a list of needed development projects including construction of a museum, restoration of archeological features, access roads and parking, tree planting, and fence construction - all to include the detached Lamar Site, where a levee was also needed. Camp NM-4, Company 1426 (now re-classed by the National Park Service as NP-5), was established at Ocmulgee National Monument in May 1937 under the direction of Dr. Arthur R. Kelly as Project Superintendent and Gordon R. Willey as Senior Foreman Archeologist. The Camp developed rapidly with over 200 unemployed youth ages 17 –23 years old living in four army-style barracks with accompanying mess halls, kitchen, latrine, educational and recreational halls, and an infirmary, along with a garage and shops. Life in the Camp was not all work with no play, as evidenced by the recreation hall with pool and ping-pong tables, outdoor volleyball and basketball courts, and a softball field. Each enrollee received $30.00 monthly, of which $25.00 was allotted for family support and sent home. The CCC youth were extensions of, and in some cases worked simultaneously, with other depression-era relief agencies. Included in the massive archeological excavations and rehabilitation of the site were the Civil Works Administration (CWA), the Federal Emergency Relief Administration (FERA), and the Works Progress Administration (WPA). The CCC was administered through the War Department, and the enrollees wore army-style uniforms and maintained their Camp in military fashion with somewhat less emphasis on discipline than the regular army. Individual assignments and training included cooking, serving in the archeological laboratory located in the Macon Auditorium, and later serving as guides for park visitors. However, most of the young men served as laborers in the rehabilitation of the excavation sites and on construction projects.

Opelofa Trail NPS Park Trails Ocmulgee Mounds National Historical Park has 8 miles of peaceful trails that give visitors opportunities to see 7 historical mounds as well as vibrant wetlands and forest environments. Most of the trails are a mile or less in length (one-way), but can be joined together to form longer loops if desired. Park benches are placed at various places along the trails for visitor convenience. Trail Rules All visitors must be out of the park by 5:00PM. For your protection, please stay off the mound slopes. Pets are welcome but must be on a leash at all times. Fishing is permitted on the banks of the Ocmulgee River. A valid state fishing license is required. Fishing is NOT permitted in the Clay pond or from boardwalks and bridges. Bikes and ebikes are ONLY allowed on the River Trail, Heritage Trail, and road. Picnic in the picnic area only; no fires are permitted. If you need additional information, please call the Visitor Center at (478) 752-8257. Trails and Distances Visitor Center to the Great Temple Mound (Main Path)- 1/2 mile This trail leads to three of Ocmulgee's most popular points of interest – the Earth Lodge, the Trading Post site, and the Great and Lesser Temple Mounds.

Dunlap Trail- 1/4 mile This trail leads to one of a few surviving Civil War earthworks in Macon , and to the Dunlap Mound.The Civil War earthworks were constructed after the Battle of Dunlap Hill which took place July 30, 1864. The earthwork was used again that same year in November during the Battle of Walnut Creek . It is named after Samuel Dunlap, who purchased the property in 1856 to build his house and establish a dairy farm. The Dunlap House is a private residence today. McDougal Trail- 1/2 mile This trail is named after Captain Robert McDougal, who was in command of Fort Hawkins in 1809. McDougal died in 1809, and according to legend, was buried in a small Indian mound near the fort, but archaeologists did not find any human remains in the mound during the excavations in the 1930s. There were three smaller mounds between the McDougal Mound and the fort which were destroyed during expansion and construction of Macon . Heritage Trail- 1 3/4 miles This paved trail winds through the park and connects with the greater Ocmulgee River Greenway trail. This is the only trail that bikes can travel on in the park. Opelofa Trail- 1 mile "Opelofa" is a Creek word which means "like-a-swamp."There is abundant wildlife in the wetlands this trail runs through. It is great for bird watching;you may see egrets, osprey, herrings, and anhinga. The Walnut Creek wetlands has fish, turtles, frogs, and snakes. Part of the trail borders Walnut Creek which is occasionally home to beaver. Opelofa Loop Trail- 1/4 mile This quirky trail is an offshoot of the longer Opelofa Trail. The trail loops through woods before running parallel to Walnut Creek. Hikers should be aware that there is a small drop-off to one side of the trail during this portion. Walnut Creek is home to reptiles, amphibians, and the occasional beaver and otter.

Bartram Trail- 3/4 mile William Bartram (1739-1823) was a well-known naturalist who traveled through this area in 1774 and 1776. Bartram wrote about the "Old Ocmulgee Fields" in his journal. This trail winds lazily through the woods on both sides of the railroad bridge, which was built in 1874 and is on the National Historic Register. Walking this trail, you may encounter deer, squirrels, chipmunks, lizards and many varieties of birds. The Southeast Mound Trail– 1/4 mile This trail travels from the southeast corner of the Trading Post site to the Southeast Mound, and then south through the woods a short way to end at the park road. Little is known about this mound. Archaeologists believe it may have been damaged by plowing and erosion. The Hitchiti Village Site Trail– 1/4 mile This trail starts at the Trading Post Site and winds through a small area of woodland. Early Creek Indians (late 1600's) are believed to have occupied this area prior to the Yamassee War of 1715. Wildlife you may encounter on this trail are deer, turtles, squirrels, snakes, lizards and a variety of bird species. River Trail– 1/2 mile This trail winds through a wooded area to the Ocmulgee River . It borders Walnut Creek to where it meets the river, making it a good place to potentially see wildlife. However, visitors have occasionally encountered dangerous wildlife such as alligators along this trail or the river. Be aware of your surroundings as you walk along this trail and the river. Funeral Mound Loop– 1/4 mile This loop trail starts near the Funeral Mound parking lot at the end of the park road. It explores a more secluded part of the park as it descends from open fields alongside the park road into a stand of trees. Corn Field Mound Trail– 1/4 mile This trail is a grass trail that goes past the Corn Field Mound and prehistoric trenches, and ends at the Heritage Trail. The Corn Field Mound is believed to have originally been a ceremonial cornfield. Later the mound was built over the field. The purpose of the prehistoric trenches is unknown; it could have been used for a fortification or for borrow pits for mound building.

This trail leads to three of Ocmulgee's most popular points of interest – the Earth Lodge, the Trading Post site, and the Great and Lesser Temple Mounds. Dunlap Trail- 1/4 mile

Opelofa Loop Trail- 1/4 mile This quirky trail is an offshoot of the longer Opelofa Trail. The trail loops through woods before running parallel to Walnut Creek. Hikers should be aware that there is a small drop-off to one side of the trail during this portion. Walnut Creek is home to reptiles, amphibians, and the occasional beaver and otter. Bartram Trail- 3/4 mile