Mojave National Preserve ⓘ

As miners began to occupy the region in the late 1800s, cattle ranchers followed close behind. Soon, ranching turned into a legitimate and very profitable business. By 1894, the Rock Springs Land and Cattle Company (which locals called the "88") is said to have supported 10,000 head of cattle. It was the second largest cattle ranching operation in California, which is remarkable when one considers the rugged desert terrain that the cattle were grazing in. The ranchers were able to develop innovative water allotment systems to widely distribute water resources from just a couple natural springs. The cows were allowed to roam free throughout the desert, and when it was time to send them off to markets, cowboys on horseback would track them down and gather them up at corrals. There were dozens of corrals built throughout the Mojave National Preserve for this purpose, mostly near natural water sources. Many of these corrals are still standing today. During the 1920s, drought and new governmental legislation made ranching less profitable, and the 88 split up into many smaller ranches (including the OX, Walking Box, Kessler Springs, and Valley View). There is still active cattle ranching in the Mojave National Preserve today.

[Gary] Overson began working on the OX at age 11, and his lifelong ambition was to someday acquire the ranch. After running cattle in Arizona, he returned to the East Mojave in 1969.

“I had 99 cows, one bull, three saddle horses and a brand new wife,” he said. “I built all this up myself.”

Today he operates four ranches, including the OX, and 3,500 head of crossbred cattle--by far the largest operation in the East Mojave. His 7,000 acres of privately owned land includes Caruthers Canyon, one of the most scenic parts of the East Mojave, where 273 species of flowering plants flourish. Overson leaves the canyon unfenced and open to explorers.

“I think this is the most beautiful place in the world,” he said. “I don’t know nothin’ else.” —"Rancher Doesn’t Like It, but He Sees Changes, and People, Coming;" LA Times by Glenn F. Bunting, March 19, 1992

Every day, commuters take notice of the strange ZZYZX sign just west of Baker California on I-15 and wonder what the heck it means. On this page, you can learn the quirky history of Zzyzx, which is now part of the Mojave National Preserve.

The story starts thousands of years ago, when the area was cooler and wetter. A massive lake called Lake Mojave covered the land. As the climate warmed, the water evaporated, leaving behind a mineral/salt crust in the dry Soda lake and Silver Lake basins.

Water persisted in the natural oasis, and can still be found there today. A natural spring system, called Soda Springs, was used by the Mohave and Chemehuevi people for many generations, and by the mid-1800s it was also used by early western explorers and the US Army.

In 1944, everything changed for Zzyzx. A man named Curtis Springer moved to the area and opened up a mining claim here that eventually turned him into a millionaire. Throughout the 1940s, he developed and operated Zzyzx Mineral Springs and Health Resort on his mining claim lands. The grounds consisted of a two-story castle, a dining hall, library, lecture room, pool house, goat farm, and rabbit rooms. Although Curtis Springer had left school after 9th grade, he referred to himself as a doctor. His radio show became extremely popular, being broadcast over 300 stations worldwide, and hundreds of visitors came out to visit his spa. Over the 30 years that he managed the resort, he shipped over 4 million packages all over the country, including Antediluvian Herb Tea, Nerve Cell Food, and Hollywood Pep Cocktail. The nearby town of Baker had to build a post office just to accommodate his mail. By the late 1960s, things started to fall apart for Curtis Springer. Although many customers were very satisfied with his products, complaints started increasing. After all, a former employee described Doc Springer’s formula as 10% crust from Soda Lake and 90% Epsom salts. When truly sick people arrived at Zzyzx, they found that they were miles away from actual medical care. Springer was also accused of tax evasion by the IRS, and the FDA accused him of false advertising. Finally, the Bureau of Land Management stepped in to dispute Mr. Springer’s mining claims on the land he operated on. After spending a couple months in jail for the worst of his charges, he lived out the rest of his life in Las Vegas.

The Mojave Desert has a vibrant history. Before contact with the Europeans changed their world, the Chemehuevi lived on prickly pear, mesquite and roasted agave blooms and hunted deer and bighorn sheep. They resided in the Kingston, New York, and Providence Mountains west to Soda Dry Lake and south to the Whipple Mountains. Mojave tribal peoples were concentrated along the Colorado River and the Mojave trail became their main trading route.

When explorer Father Francis Garces traveled across the Mojave Desert, in 1776, he was met by members of the Mojave Tribe. Other intrepid explorers would follow Garces, including Jedediah Smith in 1826 and John Fremont in 1844. Concern abounded about tribal attacks on the mail carriers who traveled the Mojave Road. During the 1860s government outposts were established providing protection for the mail wagons.

During this same era, gold fever struck California. The General Mining Law of 1872 permitted individuals to stake a claim on an area of land where a mineral deposit was discovered. Copper, iron, gold and silver mines rapidly became established in the Mojave. In 1883, on the eastern side of the Providence Mountains, silver was discovered in the Bonanza King Mine. In the 1940s the Kaiser Steel Company extracted more than two million tons of iron ore from the Vulcan Mine which was used in the construction of the Liberty ships during World War II. Ranchers quickly became established in Mojave as well.

Mojave's history is as varied and colorful as the individuals who staked their claim in the desert. During the 1930s, Mary Beale hiked the Providence Mountains and identified several species of plants and wildflowers. Her friends, Jack and Ida Mitchell, built a road, trails and stairs where they led tours of limestone caverns. About 10 years later, Dr. Curtis Springer established a mineral springs resort, Zzyzx . From there, he would broadcast his syndicated radio show on how to achieve sound physical and spiritual health. Now, Zzyzx is home to California State University's Desert Studies Center.

Kelso Depot, which once provided food, recreation and accommodations for Union Pacific Railroad employees is now the principal visitor center for Mojave National Preserve. Although the last passenger train crossed the tracks in 1997, freight is still transported and reminds visitors of days past.

Three of the four major North American deserts are found at Mojave National Preserve: the Mojave, Great Basin and Sonoran. Dozens of seeps and springs coupled with varied elevations and soil types create microhabitats that support a diversity of plant and animal life. Cactus gardens, relict plant communities of white fir and chaparral and the densest, largest Joshua tree forest are all found here. Geologically, the region is just as diverse as it is ecologically. Mountain ranges, dry river beds, great mesas, towering sand dunes, striking cinders cones, domes and lava flows define Mojave. Ancient rocks that date back to 2.5 billion years old have been discovered in the Clark Mountains.

Temperatures vary considerably along with the great range in elevation, from 7,929 feet at Clark Mountain to 880 feet near Baker. Summer temperatures average from 90 to upwards of 105 degrees, while lows in the winter can plummet to the 20's and blanket the Mojave with snow. As elevations effect temperatures, so too does it influence precipitation. Mountain areas receive around 9 inches annually, while lower lying areas near Baker average only 3.37 inches. At least 25 percent of precipitation falls in localized summer monsoon thunderstorms.

Much of Mojave National Preserve appears to be barren, nearly lifeless. Signs of animal life are subtle and easily overlooked. Closer investigation reveals that the desert is home to many animals. Birds and lizards are seen most frequently, but time of day, weather, and season all play a role in determining which animals are active. Desert animals must survive in brutal heat with light vegetative cover. They are supremely adapted to manage the temperature and moisture stresses. A large percentage of desert animals are nocturnal, or active at night, allowing them to evade higher temperatures and predators. Nocturnal animals include most desert rodents, bats, owls, mountain lion, skunks, and foxes. Other animals are crepuscular, active at dawn and dusk. Diurnal animals, active during the day, are the most dynamic in that their activity periods change based on temperature and season.

Mojave National Preserve is a wonderful place to explore and learn about geology. The USGS website features a gallery of rock features here. In this dynamic, changing ecosystem, there is a constant need for research and study. Click here to learn about some of the most pressing topics.

Over 200 species of birds have been spotted at Mojave National Preserve! Though a few species are able to live here permanently, most species are deterred by the area’s extreme summer temperatures, lack of water, and sparse vegetation. The best time to observe birds in the Mojave National Preserve is in the spring and fall, when neotropical migrants are moving from their winter homes in central America to their summer homes farther north. During migration season, a variable abundance of diverse species can be found, especially around springs and wooded areas. A few notable species are outlined below.

Ravens: Ravens are notorious as a portend of ill fortune in fables. In reality, they pose a grave threat to baby desert tortoises. Highly intelligent, opportunistic birds, ravens feed on rodents, carrion and baby desert tortoises. More development has led to an increase in trash and a raven population explosion.

Cactus wren: Known for usurping the nests and removing the eggs of other birds,the Cactus Wren is found in the southern areas of California and Nevada and the central sections of Texas and Mexico.

Roadrunner: Roadrunners run upwards of 15 miles per hour and dine on lizards and snakes. They can be heard "cooing" in the desert bush and chaparral where they reside. Unique "zyodactyl" feet with two toes pointing forward and two backward make them stand out among many other bird species.

Golden eagle: Golden eagles range from sea level to several thousand feet, preying upon rodents and sometimes baby tortoises. More closely related to the Red-tailed Hawk than the Bald Eagle, the Golden Eagle often returns to the same nest annually, reaching maturity at approximately 5 years of age.

Red-tailed hawk: Weighing 2-4 pounds, the red-tailed is the largest hawk. Armed with keen eyesight considered 8 times more powerful than that of humans and a wing span that can reach 56 inches, it lives on rodents, rabbits, snakes, and lizards.

What changes has your family seen since 1904? According to a recently published study in Science magazine , our desert bird and small mammal populations have also seen big changes. We recommend reading the full paper, but here’s a brief summary:

Known as the high desert, Mojave National Preserve has elevations from 938 feet at Zzyzx to 7,929 feet at Clark Mountain. The range in elevation diversifies plant life. Relict stands of white fir, juniper and pinyon pines are found at higher elevations while yuccas, Joshua Trees, and cholla are found lower. Most annual plants escape the drought periods by completing their life cycles quickly during the short winter and spring rainy season, before the desert becomes dry and inhospitable. These are the grasses and wildflowers that carpet the desert with soft color in favorable years. Drought resistant species include shrubs, which often drop their leaves during dry periods, and cacti, whose leaves are reduced to a spine. The fleshy stem of the cactus stores water, while the spiny leaves provide shade to protect the stem sections. A third group of plants grows around springs and seeps where there is an ample supply of water. This riparian vegetation is an important resource to animals, especially migratory birds.

Mojave National Preserve provides opportunities for both RV and tent camping. NPS/Matt Clausen Camping in Mojave National Preserve is an enjoyable and rewarding experience for visitors of all ages, backgrounds, and experience levels. Developed campgrounds are ideal for less experienced campers or visitors with passenger vehicles and RVs, while previously used undeveloped roadside camping sites offer a more wild experience for well-prepared four-wheel-drive vehicle based campers. For the adventurous and dedicated expert desert backpacker, there are more that 700,000 acres of wilderness to explore on foot.

Average Weather at the Developed Campgrounds Average Day and Night Temperatures (°F) Mid Hills Campground 5,600 ft elevation Hole-in-the-Wall Campground 4,400 ft elevation April to May Day 45°F to 65°F Night 35°F to 50°F Day 55°F to 75°F Night 45°F to 60°F June to August Day 60°F to 100°F Night 55°F to 80°F Day 70°F to 105°F Night 65°F to 75°F September to October Day 45°F to 70°F Night 40°F to 60°F Day 55°F to 80°F Night 50°F to 70°F November to March Day 30°F to 50°F Night 10°F to 30°F Day 40°F to 60°F Night 20°F to 40°F

A volunteer service group camping out in a previously disturbed campsite near Cowhole Mountain. NPS Photo / Sierra Willoughby Roadside or Undeveloped Campsites Undeveloped roadside campsites are an option for well-prepared campers who are self-sufficient and have a vehicle that can handle rougher road conditions. Most sites require a high clearance, four-wheel-drive vehicle to access, while a select few can be found where two-wheel drive high clearance would be adequate. (Note that backcountry road conditions can change at anytime) There is a 14-day camping limit. There is no fee to camp at an undeveloped campground. Roadside and Undeveloped Camping Regulations Roadside and undeveloped camping must be in previously used sites outside of any posted no camping areas, or areas listed below. In order to protect sensitive habitat for wildlife, campsites must be more than 200 yards from any natural or constructed water source. Groups over 7 vehicles/ 25 people and/or organized events will need to obtain a permit Large groups can cause extensive damage to vegetation in non permitted areas. A permit ranger may be able to assist you and your group to find an appropriate site to stay. Vehicles must remain in previously disturbed areas. The creation of new campsites will not be allowed. Driving off of established roads is not permitted. Campfires are allowed in existing fire ring or in a fire pan. Constructing New Fire rings is not allowed Collecting and or cutting firewood is prohibited in the Preserve. Bring your firewood with your from outside the preserve Backcountry campers may camp anywhere in the Preserve outside of designated day use only areas but must erect their tent out of sight of paved roads. Trash must be packed out, leave the area cleaner than you found it. Human waste must be buried at least 6 inches deep, toilet paper needs to be packed out as trash. Nobody likes to find used toilet paper on their national park expereince. Do not bury or leave behind any food scraps, trash, or compost. This attracts ravens and other predators of the threatened desert tortoise. Areas Where Camping is prohibited All areas within ¼ mile of paved roads, unless formally designated as a camping area. The access road to the Kelso Dunes, the parking lot, and the area north of the road to the crest of the dunes, or a distance of 1 mile, and the area ¼ mile south of the road. All areas within ¼ mile of the access road to Zzyzx, including the visitor parking lot. All areas within ½ mile of Fort Piute. All areas within ½ mile of the Kelso Depot. Additional undeveloped campsites can be found here

Black Canyon Road Name GPS Miles from the Freeway Class Size Hazard Warnings Black Canyon North Site 34.9824, -115.3889 15.3 Miles from I-40 A, B, C Large rocks and desert pin stripping. Limited space. Black Canyon South Site 34.9352, -115.412 13.5 Miles from I-15 A, B, C Narrow with some divits.

Cima Road Name GPS Miles from the Freeway Class Size Hazard Warnings Sunrise Rocks 35.3152, -115.5508 11.1 Miles from I-15 A, B, C Rocky road and soft sand. 4WD recommned.

Kelbaker Road Name GPS Miles from the Freeway Class Size Hazard Warnings Soda Dry Lake View 35.2533, -115.8915 11.1 Miles from I-15 A, B, C Soft sand and no turn around beyond GPS point. Soft sand at final right turn into the campsite. Black Tank Wash 35.2004412, -115.8720195 13.5 Miles from 1-15 A, B, C Camp East of Kelbaker Road; Soft sand West of Kelbaker Road. Vulcan Mine Road 34.958053, -115.638608 38.5 Miles from I-15; 18.9 Miles from I-40 A, B, C No turn around beyond GPS Point. 4WD and High Clearance beyond GPS Point. Kelso Dunes Mine 34.8881, -115.7166 46.6 Miles from I-15; 18.5 Miles from I-40 A, B, C Washboard road beyond hiking trailhead. Hidden Hills 34.7937, -115.6031 6.9 Miles from I-40 Small RVs B,C Uneven dirt road. Van Winkle Mountain 34.7777, -115.6076 6.2 Miles from I-40 Small RVs B,C Desert pin striping hazard. May hear gun shots during quail hunting season. Dharma Tower 34.765977, -115.634573 4.1 Miles from I-40 Small RVs B,C Turn on to dirt road at this coordinate. Google Maps will send you the wrong way if you use the tower coordinates. Tower wires may limit taller RVs. Kelbaker Boulders 34.7457, -115.652 2.5 Miles from I-40 Small RVs B,C Soft sand and 4WD beyond GPS coordinates.

Undeveloped Campsites Information about camping in undeveloped campsites can be found here.

Camping in Mojave National Preserve is an enjoyable and rewarding experience for visitors of all ages, backgrounds, and experience levels. Developed campgrounds are ideal for less experienced campers or visitors with passenger vehicles and RVs, while previously used undeveloped roadside camping sites offer a more wild experience for well-prepared four-wheel-drive vehicle based campers. For the adventurous and dedicated expert desert backpacker, there are more that 700,000 acres of wilderness to explore on foot. Be sure to follow our camping regulations .

If you're looking for a designated camping spot with two-wheel drive passenger vehicle access that can accommodate most RVs and trailers, one of the three developed campgrounds: Mid Hills, Hole-in-the-Wall, and Black Canyon is your best choice. These three campgrounds are open year-round. These sites are equipped with vault toilets, trash receptacles, fire rings and picnic tables. Mid Hills and Hole-in-the-Wall can accommodate up to 8 people per site and are reservation only. Water is available at Hole-in-the-Wall and Black Canyon Group Campgrounds, while water needs to be hauled in at Mid Hills. Potable water for filling bottles and camping jugs is available for all overnight and day use visitors at the Hole-in-the-Wall Visitor Center and Kelso Depot. Spigots in the preserve are not set up for filling RV water tanks. A dump station for RV tanks and portable toilets is available at Hole-in-the-Wall Campground. Groups larger than 8 people will need to make reservations for Black Canyon Group and Equestrian Campground.

Horses and riders are welcome in Mojave National Preserve! Horses and/or other pack animals (llamas and mules) are permitted on all trails, backcountry roads, and open country (including wilderness areas) within the preserve.

Developed camping facilities are available at the Black Canyon Equestrian & Group Campground . Backcountry users should familiarize themselves with guidelines and regulations for backcountry travel and camping, as well as the following:

Backpackers will enjoy sweeping views, solitude, nearly 700,000 acres of designated wilderness, and a truly dark nighttime canopy of countless stars. There is rarely naturally occuring water in the preserve, so prepare to carry all your own water or create an itinerary that stops by either park sources at Hole-in-the-Wall or Kelso Depot. Make sure you contact us prior to your trip about your plans for parking your vehicle overnight. This helps us monitor the preserve for abandoned vehicles.