El Morro National Monument ⓘ

The Puebloans , agriculturalists of the high desert, were master builders. Their earliest structures, half-buried pithouses, evolved into above-ground pueblos by 1000 CE. Soon the ancestral Puebloans were building many of their villages on mesa tops, like the ones found at El Morro. Atsinna Pueblo, the largest of the pueblos in El Morro, dates from about 1275 CE. The community here thrived, as there were reliable resources of food and water found in the valley.

The ancestral Puebloans made use of what they had around them: flat sedimentary rock easily cut up as slabs they could pile one on top of another and cement with clay and pebbles. The pueblo measures about 200’ by 300’ and would have housed between 500 and 600 people at its peak. Approximately 355 interconnected rooms surround an open courtyard. Square and circular ceremonial rooms--underground chambers known as kivas--were spaces for informal gatherings as well as their religious ceremonies. The archeological excavations in the 1950s exposed adobe walls painted with murals. The dwelling would have a covered roof with a entrance leading into the living areas. Today, members of the Historic Preservation Division care for Atsinna Pueblo. Careful repairs and upkeep allow visitors to learn about the origianl inhabitants of El Morro National Monument.

The landscape around Atsinna would have been utilized by the ancestral Puebloans. Naturally occurring pools on the sandstone, called tinajas would have been used for seasonal water sources. Some may have been expanded to collect more water.

In addition, hand-and-toe holds lead into the box canyon as well as near the pool , indicating the water source seen today along the Inscription Loop Trail would have been used during the Pueblo occupation.

Emerging from a hunter-gatherer culture some 2,000 year ago, the ancestral Puebloans were agriculturalists who built small villages along streams throughout the Southwest. Here they would grow crops such as maize, beans, and squash, in addition to harvesting native plants and hunting. Eventually these small pueblos would evolve into larger dwellings with thriving communities throughout the El Morro valley. Atsinna Pueblo , seen along the Headland Trail , is the largest dwelling within El Morro. Archeological investigations show that this structure would have been utilized starting around 1275 CE. Perhaps these communities were not meant to be permanent; Atsinna was only occupied for around 75-100 years. Excessive heat, drought, or change in cultural practices may have been reasons to leave Atsinna and continue their journey beyond.

The rock markings the ancestral Puebloans left behind are a language that may communicate both the mundane and the spiritual. Petroglyphs found throughout the monument depict different cultures, ideas, and messages over hundreds of years. Created by pecking the rock surface using a chisel or antler, these messages have withstood the passing of time. Some 200 petroglyphs are protected within El Morro, in addition to several pictographs, or rock paintings, many of which can be viewed from the Inscription Loop Trail .

For many Indigenous people, Atsinna and related sites continue to be important places to them-part of their larger homelands that once stretched far beyond the boundaries seen today. Many people called this valley home. The Zuni (A:shiwi), whose ancestors resided in the pueblos atop El Morro, call the sandstone bluff Atsinna, or “place of writing on the rock.” Today, the Zuni (A:shiwi), Navajo (Diné), and Acoma continue to have close cultural ties to Atsinna Pueblo and the lands around El Morro National Monument.

The second generation of conquistadors pursued a myth of golden cities in a place called Cibola. Stories of these golden cities lead them to the northern reaches of “New Spain.” If this was Cibola, it meant a chance to relive the glories and riches of Aztec Mexico. In 1540, a Spanish expedition led by Francisco Vasquez de Coronado found Puebloan villages of simple, adobe dwellings instead of the hoped-for cities of gold.

After the area failed to produce the riches they sought, the Spainards took a new approach to colonizing the Southwest. The area became a destination for establishing missions to convert the Puebloans to Christianity. The Spanish believed that “saving souls” would serve both God and State. In 1583, an expedition led by explorer Antonio de Espejo was sent to the Rio Grande valley pueblos in search of two Franciscan priests. After confirming that the preists had been killed, Espejo headed westward toward Zuni. On March 11, 1583, he recorded his stop at a place he called El Estanque de Penol ( pool at the great rock ), the first historical record of El Morro.

In 1598, Don Juan de Onate founded the first European colony in New Mexico, becoming the territories first governor. He led many Spanish expeditions into the Great Plains and down the Colorado River in search of the fabled gold cities. On April 16th, 1605, his name was inscribed at El Morro as he was returning from the “discovery of the South Sea.” This marked the first known European inscription on the rock. Over time, other Spanish inscriptions were added as governors, soldiers, and priests passed by El Morro on their way to the western pueblos.

The western pueblos' distance from Santa Fe helped buffer the impact of Spain's religious and secular controls. Nonetheless, years of resentment began to boil over. As a result, in 1680, Puebloans united in a revolt that forced the Spanish out of New Mexico. The Puebloans remained free of Spanish rule for 12 years in the only successful Indigenous revolt in North America. In 1692, the territory again fell under Spanish control after the reconquest by Governor Deigo de Vargas. After the reconquest, de Vargas passed through the El Morro valley and left his inscription on the rock.

By the end of the 18th century, neither Church nor State showed much interest in the isolated territory. Increased warfare with the Navajo, Apache, Ute, and Comanche was part of the reason for the change. As a result, few Spanish travelers passed by El Morro during this period. In 1821, the territory fell under Mexican rule, who devoted energy to war with the Navajo in the north.

Long before El Morro National Monument was founded, members of the local community had been urging for the protection of Inscription Rock and the thousands of signatures found on its base. When the Antiquities Act was signed in 1906 by President Theodore Roosevelt, El Morro became the second monument created largely in part due to community support. In 1916, the National Park Service was created, and National Monuments established under the Antiquities Act were placed under their care.

In the early years of park management, living conditions were primitive. The duty station was remote, the dirt roads leading to the park were often impassible during wet or snowy weather, and there was no running water or electricity. The first contact station for El Morro was built by hand in 1918. This small wooden structure located by the Pool not only served as a point of contact for visitors, but also served as the ranger cabin until 1938. Eventually a stone contact station would be established. This building is still used today as portions of the El Morro National Monument Visitor Center .

The Civil Works Administration was created in 1933 as a New Deal employment initiative. The Great Depression had caused mass unemployment, and many men needed work. The CWA was a local hiring opportunity, where members of the surrounding areas were hired for manual labor projects. The CWA would eventually be replaced by the Civilian Conservation Corps. The trails within El Morro, as well as dams and arroyo diversion, were all completed by CWA crews who spent months laying the foundation for recreation with the monument. Their work is still seen today for those visitors hiking the Headland Trail , following the groves carved across the cuesta almost 100 years ago.

New Mexico became a US territory as a result of the US-Mexican War (1846-48). The US Army completed extensive surveys of the new territory. In 1849, Lt. James H. Simpson and artist Richard Kern of the US Army Topographical Engineers made the first English descriptions of El Morro and left their own marks behind.

An Army expedition led by Lt. Edward F. Beale passed by El Morro in 1857 as they worked to survey a wagon road from Fort Smith, Arkansas to California. The expedition was also instructed to experiment with the use of camels for desert transportation. The Beale’s wagon road continued to be used by the army and settlers headed west, many of whom inscribed their name on “Inscription Rock.”

In 1868, a Union Pacific survey party looked for a rail route past El Morro. Ultimately the 35th parallel route, recommended earlier by the Engineers, took the trains 25 miles to the north. After this, most traffic through the El Morro valley ceased. The area continued to be used for trade between Zuni and Acoma pueblos and for the Mormon settlers of Ramah. In December of 1906, the rock and its inscriptions was declared a National Monument by Theodore Roosevelt, making it the second in the nation.

A plethora of life resides in El Morro. Birds are one of the most often spotted forms of wildlife that are found here. Year-round species such as the Red-tailed Hawk, Western Scrub Jay, Cliff Swallow, American Robin, Northern Flickers are often seen while hiking through the park. With some binoculars and patience, a sharp eye can spot smaller residents such as the American Kestrels, Pygmy Nuthatch, or the Canyon Wren. Ask for a birding list at the El Morro Visitor Center .

Late spring and early summer bring famed migrators such as Black-chinned or Broad-tailed Hummingbirds, as well as many different warbler species such as the Virginia Warbler, Orange-crowned Warbler, and the Wilson’s Warbler. Sightings are most often reported near the pool along the Inscription Loop Trail in the mornings, or the northern stretch of the Headland Trail in the grassy meadows. Other good locations to spot migrators is from the campground amphitheater where the juniper forest meets the grasslands.

Meadows and juniper forests give way to views of Inscription Rock from the campground. NPS Photo/P.Reed Within the Monument El Morro National Monument operates a free, nine-site campground with two vault toilets. The campground is open 24/7 year-round. Each site has a graveled tent pad, picnic table, and ground grill for fires. During the warmer months, water is available in spigots centrally located along the campground loop. When overnight temperatures begin to drop below freezing, water is turned off for the season. One site, No. 5, is handicapped accessible.

Sites are available by self-registration on a first-come, first-served basis; reservations are not accepted . The campground occasionally fills up on weekends from May through September. El Morro National Monument does not collect camping fees; campsites are fee-free. Picnicking A day use picnic area is availble between 9 am and 5 pm. Picnic tables are located adjacent to the oversize vehicle parking lot near the Visitor Center. A group picnic site is available to the public if not already reservered for school group use.

Campground Rules Number of People/Vehicles : Campsites are limited to no more than eight people, two tents, and two vehicles per site. Tents are restricted to the confines of each campsite. Campfires : Fires are permitted in provided grills only. Collection of firewood within the monument is always prohibited, so bring firewood with you if you intend to have a campfire. Ensure that fires are extinguished completely after use. Never leave campfires unattended. Camping Limits : The campground has a limit of 14 days per calendar year. Quiet Hours : From 10 pm to 6 am, including generators, radios, etc. Pets : Pets must never be left unattended. Pets must always be kept on a leash no longer than 6 feet. Pet owners are responsible for cleanup and cleanup supplies. Recreational Vehicles : There are no hookups for recreational vehicles (RVs). The length limit on all RVs is 27 feet overall. This is measured from the front of the truck to the end of the trailer. Wildlife : Feeding wildlife, including stray cats and dogs, is prohibited. Coyotes and ravens are scavengers–please keep your campsite clean and properly store your food in a vehicle. The use of artificial sources (such as spotlighting) to deliberately illuminate or view wildlife, including infrared, thermal imaging, or ultra-violet (black light) devices of any kind, is prohibited. Unmanned Aircraft : Launching, landing, and operation of unmanned aircraft on lands and waters administered by the National Park Service within the boundaries or the Monument is prohibited. Restrictions : The campground is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. However, the visitor center and trails close each night. Do not enter the visitor center parking area or monument trails after hours. There are no trails that originate from the campground. Campers are required to remain within 150 feet of the campground road and campsite to protect El Morro's natural resources.

Area Camping and Lodging The public lands and communities around El Morro offers a variety of different lodging options for those seeking to extend their stay. El Morro National Monument is a rural park, with sporadic cell service, so plans should be made before arrival. Public Campgrounds Joe Skeen Campground (BLM) - Designated campground off Highway 117 with 10 free sites available on a first-come, first-served basis. El Malpais National Conservation Area (BLM) - Primitive, backcountry camping. Cibola National Forest, Mount Taylor Ranger District (USFS) - Designated campgrounds and backcountry camping options. Bluewater Lake State Park (NM State Park) - Designated primative and developed camping options. Private Campgrounds and Lodging Private campgrounds are available in the surrounding communities. Visit the Visit Grants (43 miles northeast of El Morro) or the Gallup Chamber of Commerce (55 miles northwest of El Morro) websites for more information about local lodging opportunities.

El Morro National Monument operates a free, nine-site campground with two vault toilets. The campground is open 24/7 year-round. Each site has a graveled tent pad, picnic table, and ground grill for fires. During the warmer months, water is available in spigots centrally located along the campground loop. When overnight temperatures begin to drop below freezing, water is turned off for the season. One site, No. 5, is handicapped accessible. Sites are available by self-registration on a first-come, first-served basis; reservations are not accepted . The campground occasionally fills up on weekends from May through September. El Morro National Monument does not collect camping fees; campsites are fee-free.

There are over 2,000 inscriptions and hundreds of petroglyphs on the face of El Morro. NPS Photo/Pattie Reed If you have an hour or less ... Walk the Inscription Rock Trail and see why El Morro was proclaimed a national monument.This trail takes you to the pool and past hundreds of Spanish and early American inscriptions, as well as pre–historical petroglyphs . If you still have time when you return to the visitor center , watch the 15 minute video in the museum.

Atsinna Pueblo is a highlight for visitors on the Headland Trail. NPS Photo/Julianna Ellis If you have 2 hours ... Walk the entire 2–mile Headland Trail . This includes the Inscription Trail but also continues to the top of the bluff for a look into the Ancestral Puebloan dwelling, Atsinna . The Headland Trail is 2 miles long and takes approximately 2 hours. You must start the trail no later than 2:30 pm. Portions or all of the Headland Trail may be closed during the winter months.

The Headlands Trail takes visitors across the top of the sandstone bluff that makes El Morro. NPS Photo/Julianna Ellis If you have more than 2 hours... Watch the 15 minute film for an introduction to El Morro National Monument, walk the 2 mile Headland Trail, and explore the exhibits and bookstore back at the visitor center.

Walk the Inscription Rock Trail and see why El Morro was proclaimed a national monument.This trail takes you to the pool and past hundreds of Spanish and early American inscriptions, as well as pre–historical petroglyphs . If you still have time when you return to the visitor center , watch the 15 minute video in the museum. The Inscription Rock Trail is 0.75 miles (1.2km) long and takes approximately 45 minutes. You must start the trail no later than 4:00 pm.