Effigy Mounds National Monument ⓘ

The Late Woodland Period (1400-750 B.P.) along the Upper Mississippi River and extending east to Lake Michigan is associated with the culture known today as the Effigy Moundbuilders. The construction of effigy mounds was a regional cultural phenomenon. Mounds of earth in the shapes of birds, bear, deer, bison, lynx, turtle, panther or water spirit are the most common images. Like earlier groups, the Effigy Moundbuilders continued to build conical mounds for burial purposes, but their burial sites lacked the trade goods of the preceding Middle Woodland Culture. The Effigy Moundbuilders also built linear or long rectangular mounds that were used for ceremonial purposes that remain a mystery. Some archeologists believe they were built to mark celestial events or seasonal observances. Others speculate they were constructed as territorial markers or as boundaries between groups.

The animal-shaped mounds remain the symbol of the Effigy Mounds Culture. Along the Mississippi River in northeast Iowa and across the river in southwest Wisconsin, two major animal mound shapes seem to prevail: the bear and the bird. Near Lakes Michigan and Winnebago, water spirit earthworks—historically called turtle and panther mounds—are more common.

The Effigy Mound Culture extends from Dubuque, Iowa, north into southeast Minnesota, across southern Wisconsin from the Mississippi to Lake Michigan, and along the Wisconsin-Illinois boundary. The counties of Dubuque, Clayton, and Allamakee contain almost all the effigy mounds found in Iowa.

Clues can be found in American Indian legends and mythology and to a lesser extent, scientific research. The stories and legends of the Native Americans whose ancestors built the mounds describe the effigy mounds as ceremonial and sacred sites. Archeologists believe the effigy mounds delineated territories of choice gathering and hunting grounds. Unfortunately, much of the data is inconclusive.

Present day culturally associated American Indian tribes with Effigy Mounds National Monument include:

Biography Ellison Orr was born in McGregor, Iowa in 1857 and spent his childhood and early youth growing up on the prairies and timbered sloughs near the town of Postville in Allamakee County, Iowa. In many ways, his early life was fairly typical of the time. He was raised on a farm, he found entertainment in hunting, fishing, and exploring, and he learned to read and write in a one room country schoolhouse. Orr and his first wife, Mary Belle (Makepeace), were the parents of four children, Fred, Harry, Florence, and James. Mary Belle died in 1915, and Orr remarried in 1918 to Eva May Teeple (Cook), who died in 1944. Orr completed the manuscript Reminisces of a Pioneer Boy in 1945 and lived another six years, ultimately passing away at his home in Waukon, Iowa on January 25, 1951.

In the later years of his life, Ellison Orr was active in promoting the idea of protecting the cultural and natural resources of northeast Iowa. He played a key role in the eventual creation of Effigy Mounds National Monument, and, after its creation in 1949, he donated most of his writings and much of his American Indian artifact collection to the national monument. His mound survey and mapping projects, not to mention the excavations and reports he completed on land that would become Effigy Mounds National Monument, represent the core scholarship upon which future researchers built and continue to build our knowledge of the deep and complex history of this region. Without the efforts of Ellison Orr, it is not an exaggeration to speculate that there would be no Effigy Mounds National Monument in Northeast Iowa.

The Reminiscences of a Pioneer Boy In 1924 when Ellison Orr was 67 years old, he embarked on a project to write down what he could recollect of his childhood and early life growing up near Postville, Iowa. Rather than sit down at one time and write all that he could recall at the moment, he would instead write up sections as memories came to him, such as coming face-to-face with a prairie wolf, helping his mother with house chores, or stealing eggs from a passenger pigeon nest. The result of these efforts was the creation of a manuscript, Reminisces of a Pioneer Boy , written in sections over a 21-year period. This manuscript, which is extremely rich in very descriptive stories, describes wild places and the lives of people that, while being vaguely familiar to us in these times, takes place in a time and place that, when compared with life in Northeast Iowa today, is largely occupied by people who live a foreign lifestyle and exist on a very foreign landscape.

State Representative George Schulte addresses the Iowa General Assembly on the matter of establishing a national park along the Mississippi River in Iowa.

"… If established as a national park it will become the favorite retreat during vacation and rest for the people along the river from New Orleans to Minneapolis. We hope to see the time when the tourist will be attracted by beautiful parks and cities along the “Father of Waters” and that he will take a tip up the Mississippi instead of touring on the Hudson or crossing the Atlantic for a trip up the Rhine. There is no grander river than ours. There are none of greater possibilities and where when many years have passed its beauty will be celebrated in poetry and song, and we hope to see a national park at the confluence of the Wisconsin and Mississippi that will be unrivaled in its natural beauty. Here twenty thousand acres or more are awaiting to be called to serve the purpose for which I believe it was intended, to become the pleasure ground for the American people and remain such until time shall be no more. The passing of this resolution may not cause. Congress to act but I do hope that it may have the effect of calling the attention of the people to the fact that there is a necessity and demand for public pleasure grounds for future generations, and I hope that this resolution may receive the unanimous support of the House ."

This would mark the official beginning of the national park movement that would result in the formation of Effigy Mounds National Monument

A 1917 speech as President of the Iowa Forestry and Conservation Association (formerly the Iowa Park and Forestry Association), moved Orr to the forefront of the national park movement in Iowa . “...For some time there has been on foot a proposition to purchase and set aside an area of about 10, 000 acres, about thirteen square miles, of land bordering the Mississippi River from McGregor to Sny McGill Creek to the south... Inasmuch as it includes the first land in Iowa seen by Father Marquette...and as it is still much the same as when first seen by these explorers, it is a point of enough historical interest to be worth while preserving in it natural beauty for that alone...As parts of it are still covered with primeval forest, untouched by the axe, it is one of the few spots where the primitive forest conditions of our state can still be studied ...”

The Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish Refuge Act established a refuge that eventually would encompass more than 200, 000 acres of wildlife habitat along the upper Mississippi River

The name for the proposed park was changed from the “Mississippi Valley National Park” to the “Upper Mississippi National Park.” Along with the name change, the recommended size of the park was enlarged to an area stretching from Minneapolis-St. Paul, Minnesota to 45 miles south of Dubuque, Iowa.

The superintendent of Yellowstone National Park Roger Toll toured the area by both automobile and boat, covering the Mississippi River from Bellevue, Iowa to Winona, Minnesota.

In his report to Congress, Roger Toll concluded a national monument was appropriate, but a national park was not feasible. The main problem with the national park proposal was the number of towns and cities within the proposed boundaries. These places would have to be excluded from the proposal, causing the park to be made up of a number of isolated tracts.

The eastern half of the United States has a wide variety of ancient and historic earthen mounds, ranging from simple conical mounds to large platform mounds and complex concentric circles. These earthen architecture structures were built by many different American Indian groups over several thousand years. In the Midwest, effigy mounds built in the shapes of bears, birds, panthers, snakes and water spirits were particularly prevalent. These mounds are primarily found in southern Wisconsin, northern Illinois, eastern Iowa, and southeastern Minnesota. They date to about AD 650-1200, and were probably built by the ancestors of the Ho-Chunk and other Midwestern tribes (Goldstein 2009).

The mounds are commonly located on flat high areas overlooking rivers and streams, especially where they intersect wetlands and lakes. These areas afforded good views, and the mounds would probably have been visible from long distances, especially if nearby trees were removed. Excavations of mounds have uncovered human remains; besides burial sites, the mounds probably also functioned as territory markers and as multi-purpose ceremonial places.

The lakes and marshes associated with the effigy mounds were productive sources of food, especially in winter. The people who built and used the mounds lived in small nearby villages. They hunted, fished, and gathered wild plant products, but also had small gardens where domesticated plants such as sunflower and squashes were grown.

Thanks to the foresight of energetic citizens, local politicians and community leaders, some of these effigy mounds are preserved in parks. One group of mounds is protected in a national monument. Congress and the President create national monuments through the agency of the Antiquities Act, which allows the Federal government to set aside public lands. Effigy Mounds National Monument, located on the Mississippi River in northeastern Iowa, protects over 200 mounds of Native American origin, 31 of which are bird and bear effigy mounds. The mounds still have much to tell us and new technologies are revealing their secrets. The elevated perspective that aerial photography and LIDAR (Light Detection and Ranging) provide allows more detailed and complete comprehension of the full extent of mounds on the landscape than does terrestrial reconnaissance. The story of the documentation and study of Native American earthen mounds is a fascinating chapter of American archeology.

What do archaeologists do? What kinds of jobs and careers are they working at? This article from the Society for American Archaeologists Record from May of 2011 provides 12 personal accounts that prove archaeologists do much more than digging. If you are interested in the field of archaeology check this site.

The natural resources of the areas surrounding Effigy Mounds National Monument and the native people that once lived here were inextricably linked. The culture of the effigy mound builders was sustained by a unique association of climate and the topography characteristic of the "Driftless", or non-glaciated area, which resulted in a wide diversity of flora and fauna and helped shape the lifestyles and the belief systems of these people. When more land was added to the monument in 1961, the park's enabling legislation was amended to mandate not only the preservation of the mounds, but also the wildlife and natural resources of the area as well.

The monument represents an important link in a complex of protected areas that preserve many of the values characteristic of this region. Much of the nearby Mississippi River bank and island area is protected by the Upper Mississippi River National Wildlife and Fish refuge, a 261-mile-long preserve that extends from Wabasha, Minnesota, to Rock Island, Illinois. Close by, and adjoining the Heritage Addition is the Yellow River State Forest, administered by the State of Iowa. Combined together Effigy Mounds and Yellow River State Forest are part of the Iowa Audubon Bird Conservation Areas. Situated between the currently developed monument units and the Sny Magill unit is Pikes Peak State Park, which preserves several effigy mounds, as well as bluff tops much like those of the monument.

Together Effigy Mounds National Monument and the Heartland Network have begun monitoring and addressing many resources issues which included mound erosion, old field management, archeological site stabilization, and the development of a unified approach to the management of natural and cultural resources.

Effigy Mounds National Monument is located where the western prairies meet the eastern forests. The monument also protects both upland and wetland habitats. The result of this mixing of habitat types is that a great diversity of animals call the monument home.

Sightings of whitetail deer, turkey, squirrel, raccoon, turkey vultures and chipmunks are a common occurence during a hike. The forest is filled with songbirds during the summer and you may even see a black rat snake laying on a sunny section of trail, trying to warm itself on a cool morning, or catch a glimpse of a five-lined skink as it scampers through fallen leaves near fire point. However, the animal kingdom includes more than just birds, reptiles and mammals - insects and spiders are part of this kingdom, too. Great spangled fritillaries and Monarch butterflies, as well as Ruby meadowhawk dragonflies, can be often seen hovering above the prairie during the summer months.

Effigy Mounds' abundant wetlands are habitat for a chorus of amphibians. In early spring, the chirping of various frog species arises from the ponds and marshes as they begin their courtship ritual. Leopard, pickerel, green and western chorus frogs, along with spring peepers lend their voice to the fray. In nearby woods, the common gray treefrog can also be heard.

The central newt is a silent inhabitant of the monument's floodplain forests. Just like frogs, it requires ponds or other semi-permanent water bodies to lay its eggs in during the early spring months. Fish are known predators of newt eggs; therefore, fishless ponds or ephemeral (semi-permanent) ponds where fish cannot survive are ideal habitat. It is a rare member of the amphibian group - it is listed as a threatened species in Iowa.

Amphibians are sensitive to changes in water quality because they require water to complete part of their life cycle. Habitat degradation is a common reason for the decline in amphibian numbers across the Midwest. Local populations are vulnerable to human crises such as chemical or pesticide spills or misuse.

Since Effigy Mounds National Monument is in the center of the Mississippi Flyway and borders the Upper Mississippi Wildlife Refuge, more than 291 species of birds nest or migrate through the monument. The bluffs and hills along the Mississippi River provide a corridor for migratory species. Each spring and fall, neotropical birds use the forested bluffs for feeding and resting stopovers. Migrating raptors use the thermals rising from the bluffs on their biannual flight to and from nesting and wintering sites along the Mississippi Flyway, one of the major migratory bird routes in the country.

In the summers of 1998-99, nineteen peregrine falcons were released at Effigy Mounds by Raptor Resource Center of Bluffton, Iowa. Peregrine falcons were released from hacking boxes located at Hanging Rock.

The Yellow River floodplain has been identified as one of 12 nesting sites of the red-shouldered hawk in the state of Iowa and it the only site located in Eastern Iowa. The majestic bald eagle nest on islands and in the bluffs surrounding the river and monument. Hundreds of bald eagles may be seen in the winter along this stretch of the river. The golden eagle even makes an appearance here, as well as other places in the upper Mississippi River valley, during the late winter months.

The environment of Effigy Mounds National Monument is in a constantly shifting, dynamic state. Weather, climatic change, geologic processes, fire, past agricultural practices, and pollution are only a few of the agents that affect today's environment.

The agriculture of the early 1900s consisted of low intensity farming practices that eliminated some but not all of the native species that were endemic to the area. In the mid 1900s farming intensity increased with the use of tractors and row crop agriculture practices. Much of the native grasses and many of the native forbs were lost. Prairie remnants are the remains of the rarest of original habitat types. The majority of the remnants that exist today are the result of agricultural land that has been allowed to lie fallow.

The combination of topography, longitude, latitude, and climate has produced unique microhabitats that support island populations of flora and fauna.

Goat prairies are small prairie remnants found on bluff faces. These prairies are associated with shallow soils, south facing slopes and rock outcrops. The south aspect, shallow soils, and drier conditions select the drought tolerant native grasses over woody vegetation giving the prairie species a competitive advantage.

The job of the Effigy Mounds Resource Team and Heartland Network , locating, identifying and monitoring of all special microhabitats, is important for maintaining and protecting the presettlement ecological remnants. The greatest potential for the existence of federally threatened and endangered species occurs in these areas.

Effigy Mounds National Monument is located in the "Driftless (non-glaciated) Area" of northeastern Iowa. The Monument lies in a geologically unique area of erosional topography drained by an intricate system of rivers and streams. The erosional forces have cut through a plain leaving high divides and precipitous bluffs above adjacent waterways. The rugged landscape left by these forces supports a wealth of animal and plant species.

The Mississippi and Yellow Rivers and adjacent wetlands are home to aquatic plants and animals, along with various species of fish, birds, amphibians, reptiles and small mammals. The eastern hardwood forests merge with the grasslands of the west.

Early survey records reveal that northeastern Iowa was a heavily forested region interspersed with prairie openings. The prairie openings penetrated into the forest area along ridge tops with smaller prairie openings found on south facing bluff edges maintained by shallow soil, higher temperatures and drier conditions. The steep hillsides were dominated by successional climax stands of maple-basswood and oak-hickory vegetation communities.

The prehistoric American Indians, whose burial and ceremonial sites are preserved at Effigy Mounds National Monument, found everything they needed to survive from the natural resources around them. Water, food, shelter, and medicine could all be found nearby.

Colonies of great blue heron, great egrets and double crested cormorants nest in trees. The rookeries are noisy places when young fledglings being fed by their parents.

The prothonotary warbler lives in the floodplain forest along the sloughs where its loud call can be heard on early summer mornings. The warbler nests in woodpecker holes left in dead snags overhanging or near the water. The males bright yellow on the head and breast and bluish wings are a sharp contrast to the green of the forest. The cerulean warbler is another warbler found high in the trees.

The floodplain and upland forests found here at Effigy Mounds provide food and habitat for larger mammals such as whitetail deer, gray and red fox, and coyote. Bobcats can also be found here, although sightings of this shy animal are very rare. The wetlands adjacent to the Mississippi and Yellow Rivers are the preferred habitat for smaller mammals such as beaver, muskrat, and river otter. Raccoon are also known to inhabit these quiet backwater shorelines as well.

Wolves, bears and mountain lions do not reside in the monument; however, young black bears have been known to travel great distances from populations to the north and may occasionally spend some time in this area before moving along.

Up until the mid-1800's northeast Iowa supported elk. Following European settlement, the elk disappeared from the region. Likewise, the timber wolf populations disappeared by the 1930's.

Reptiles do not receive the attention afforded the cute, furry mammals or harmonic birds but they are equally important in the web of life. They assist humans by eating insects, rodents, and other pest species. Throughout the Midwest, reptile numbers are declining, primarily due to loss of habitat.

The limestone bluffs unique to the Upper Mississippi River Valley and the "Driftless Area." The brown, northern redbelly, eastern garter, and prairie ringneck snakes are common but due to their small size they are difficult to find.

The black rat snake is the largest and most commonly seen snake within the monument. This snake is a constrictor and nonpoisonous but can inflict a painful bite if threatened.

Historically, the timber rattlesnake has been found in the region, although documented sightings have not taken place for many years. With the recent acquisition of the Heritage Addition, the protection of suitable habitat for the timber rattlesnake is more likely. This combined with the monument's use of prescribed fire increases the likelihood of rattlesnakes once again colonizing the secluded blufftops.

Closely related to the snakes are the skinks, which are members of the lizard family. The five-lined skink is an elusive creature. It is usually seen in hill prairie remnants along rock outcrops near Fire Point and Hanging Rock. It is the only lizard common to the monument.

Several species of turtles inhabit the lowlands and marshy areas of the monument. The easily recognizable painted turtle is one of the most frequently observed reptiles. Other turtles such as the map turtle, Blanding's turtle, and soft-shell turtles are seen with less frequency. The impressive snapping turtle can reach lengths of larger than 15 inches and weigh 40 pounds or more. These aquatic turtles inhabit the Mississippi River though they do often take short forays inland. Their name is well suited to their ornery disposition.