Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park ⓘ

While indigenous people knew of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, it was an obscure geographic feature to explorers for hundreds of years. The Spanish were the first Europeans to canvas western Colorado with two expeditions, one led by Juan Rivera in 1765, and the other by Fathers Dominguez and Escalante in 1776. Both were looking for passage to the California coast, and passed by the canyon.

Fur trappers of the early 1800s also knew of the canyon in their search for beaver pelts. They left no written record of the canyon. Later, expeditions came to the Black Canyon searching for railroad passageways, mineral wealth, or in a quest for water. Eventually explorers came to see the canyon for its natural resources, renewal, and recreation. When Black Canyon became a national monument in 1933, there was little to no infrastructure. Park staff, aided by Civilian Conservation Corps workers, built trails, roads, campgrounds, and NPS buildings. Mission 66 projects completed during the 1960s also brought new life to the roads, scenic overlooks, and campgrounds. Today, around half a million people visit Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park each year.

Five federally recognized tribes and one tribal community have cultural ties to the area within and surrounding the park.

Expeditions from the mid 1800s through the early 1900s brought knowledge of the canyon's challenging and dangerous terrain.

Work program enrollees helped build roads and do general maintenance at the newly established national monument.

The community at East Portal brought together people of various skills and backgrounds to construct the Gunnison Tunnel. It would transfer irrigation water from the Gunnison River to the fields of the Uncompahgre Valley to the west.

From 1905 to 1909, workers built a tunnel 11 feet (3.4 m) x 12 feet (3.7 m). It spanned 5.8 miles (9.3 km) from East Portal, through the Black Canyon cliffs, and underground until it reached the West Portal, east of Montrose. The tunnel’s grade is 0.2 percent, allowing water to move at a velocity of 10 feet per second (3 m/ sec) when full. The capacity is over 1,000 cubic feet per second (304 cubic m/ sec).

Most land in the American Southwest did not have reliable sources of irrigation for agriculture. Settlers moving to Colorado in the 1880s realized they could not rely solely on rain to supply enough water for crops.

As stream diversion from the Uncompahgre River started to run dry in the late 1800s, farmers of the Uncompahgre Valley needed other options. Frank Lauzon, a local farmer and former miner, is credited with the idea for a tunnel. Legend says he had a dream about the Gunnison River waters being brought to the valley for irrigation. Plans to divert water from the Gunnison River within the Black Canyon started in the late 1800s with surveys and expeditions to scout possible locations. While the Gunnison River was the most reliable water source in the area, the river had carved through the Gunnison Uplift and created the Black Canyon. The deep canyon walls created a serious barrier for farmers wanting to utilize the river’s waters. An onsite inspection trip of Black Canyon and the Gunnison River was organized in 1900 under John Pelton . Pelton was a farmer, miner, and head of the local land office. Members included surveyor John Curtis, farmers Erik Anderson and Frank Hovey, and William Torrence, director of the local electric company. The unexplored canyon proved to be a great challenge, especially in wooden boats. Near the area now called “The Narrows,” they abandoned their quest and climbed their way to the rim. However, the trip focused state and national attention on the proposal, and increased support for it.

Hydrologist Abraham Lincoln Fellows was telegrammed from Washington, D.C. to investigate the tunnel’s potential. He hired William Torrence, who had accompanied Pelton on his expedition, for a 9-day expedition in August, 1901. They set out with rubber air mattresses and waterproof bags, an improvement from equipment used in previous expeditions. Subsequent canyon surveys by Fellows and his crew in 1902 and 1903 revealed the tunnel to be feasible.

Irrigation methods had been practiced for centuries before settlers arrived. The term “reclamation” was used to describe the concept of irrigation “reclaiming” arid lands for human use. The State of Colorado originally funded $25,000 to start the tunnel to connect to a 12 mile (19.3 km) canal called "State Canal No. 3." In December 1901, workers broke ground on the Uncompahgre Vally side. Costs were vastly underestimated, and work halted after completed just 900 feet (274 m). An alternate site was eventually selected three miles upriver.

Attempts to engage the federal government into the role of reclamation had been stalled for years. Investments in infrastructure for roads, harbors, canals, and railroads was prioritized. This changed when Theodore Roosevelt became president in 1901. He supported the National Reclamation Act of 1902. Congressman John C. Bell, from nearby Montrose, was an early proponent and cosponsored the bill which also authorized the Gunnison Tunnel. Bell vigorously argued for its passage on the floor of the House of Representatives.

On June 17, 1902, the National Reclamation Act was passed. This act authorized the Secretary of the Interior to undertake water resource development activities. Water projects were financed by the federal government to provide water for irrigation. The Reclamation Service was created to carry out these projects, later renamed the Bureau of Reclamation in 1923.

The Reclamation Act charged Chief Engineer of the new Bureau of Reclamation, Frederick Newell, to begin on projects in Montana, Nevada, Wyoming, Arizona, and Colorado. The Uncompahgre Project in western Colorado included the construction of the Gunnison Tunnel. Newell was among Roosevelt’s closest advisors on conservation.

A road was blasted into the cliffs of Black Canyon during 1904. The road was incredibly steep, with grades up to 32 percent, as it reached the canyon bottom. It was difficult for those driving supplies, including three 11,600-pound boilers for the power plant, to the emerging town at the canyon bottom. Skids were used to ease down drilling equipment.

A writer for the Montrose Press recorded, “Every vehicle that goes to the River (East) Portal is provided with an iron “shoe” that fastens on the back wheel and secured by a chain... With the wheel securely fastened...one’s hair stands on end as the horses start on a trot... so we shut our eyes, grapple the lines as tightly as possible, and trust to Providence that the vehicle will remain on the grade until a level spot is struck...”

Residents of the growing town of East Portal originally lived in canvas tents. By 1906 it was a thriving community on the lower slopes of the canyon. While it never housed more than 250 people, it still provided a dining hall and bunkhouses for single men working around the clock in three shifts. Families lived in private cabins. Other services included a hospital, post office, general store, library, billiard hall, and school. A power plant with three generators produced electricity for the tunnel construction operations and the entire town. Herbert Daniels was the superintendent of the town of East Portal. Schooled in engineering, he kept construction on schedule, the tunnel on a straight course, and the town well supplied. A townsite with similar amenities called Lujane was built near West Portal.

Survey measurements had to be precise for the tunnel. This was a difficult task in the rough and steep terrain. By using geometry and linking the hypotenuse (or long side) of right-angled triangles together, a direct line could be stretched from river to rim. Work under the first contractor utilized older technology for digging and drilling. After a tunnel accident and contractor change in 1905, workers were given newer technology making work safer and easier. First, jack hammers fed by a compressor replaced hand-turned drill bits to set holes for blasting charges. Second, dynamite replaced black powder for blasting. It was more stable, reliable, and reduced the number of injuries during the project.

By 1906, shifts of up to 30 workers at a time were working inside the tunnel. While digging continued on the tunnel, a massive effort was made to extend a system of ditches to carry the water to individual farm fields. The largest of these, the South Canal, would carry water from the tunnel to the Uncompahgre River.

Workers used electric-powered trains to lug the carts full of debris out after blasting. Candles and lanterns were first used to light the work, but electric lights strung along lines improved visibility in the tunnel. While the work progressed around the clock in the tunnel, office help continued to keep the laborers supplied. Payroll, purchasing and repairs on equipment were all part of the effort.

Workers used a “heading and bench system” to create a tunnel 12 feet (3.6 m) tall. They initially cut a “heading” out of the rock by starting at the top of the bore. They cut down 6 to 8 feet (1.8 to 2.4 m), leaving a bench of 5 to 7 feet (1.5 to 2.1 m) on which to stand. Two drillers and a helper cut deeper into the rock while standing on the bench. The bench was eventually cut out, leaving the full 12-foot height of the tunnel.

Workers digging from both ends met in the middle in July 1909. President William Taft was vacationing in the west, and an invitation to dedicate the tunnel was made. A gala event with a parade, speeches, music, and dining supported the dedication on September 23, 1909. Taft pressed a button at West Portal, laborers opened a makeshift gate, and water flowed into the valley. A parade on Main Street in Montrose celebrated the tunnel's dedication. Although the tunnel was dedicated in 1909, the project was not complete. A diversion dam, concrete lining of the tunnel, and ditch system were not completed until 1922. The project ended up costing around $5,000,000. The money was paid back over a ten-year period, interest free, through the sale of water rights to Uncompahgre Valley settlers. The Gunnison Tunnel and irrigation canal system continues to supply water for crops and sustain agricultural operations in the area today.

Mission 66 was developed by the National Park Service (NPS) in the 1950s. The goal was to expand visitor services and improve and update facilities.

After World War II, cars became more affordable, and people had more leisure time. The Federal-Aid Highway Act of 1956 was signed and funded construction of the interstate highway system. This allowed for easier travel across the country. Tourism to national parks increased by almost 40 million visitors from 1940 to 1956. Parks did not have adequate infrastructure, roads, or lodging to handle increased visitation.

The Mission 66 program was first proposed to Congress by NPS Director Conrad Wirth in early 1956. The name comes from the goal to complete park projects by 1966 and in time to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the National Park Service. President Dwight D. Eisenhower recommended the program to Congress in 1956, and Congress approved larger appropriations for the NPS.

Infrastructure updates to North Rim Campground, North Rim Road, and overlook trails were already underway the year before Mission 66 began. Once the project was officially instituted, new developments were considered, such as:

The new paved approach highway from U.S. Highway 50 to Black Canyon was completed in 1958. This improvement encouraged greater traffic up to the park, but only an unimproved road continued along the rim.

Preliminary layouts for the new road were made in 1959 by several landscape architects and engineers. Bids for road reconstruction opened in mid-1960. Boundary adjustments were made due to private land holdings and successful negotiations concluded in 1960. Construction began in late 1960 and finished in late 1961. When the park opened the following spring, a greater number of tourists visited to take advantage of the new road. A dedication ceremony with local Montrose officials and NPS staff took place on May 27, 1962. This was considered one of the most important Mission 66 projects for the park.

A new campground facility was also planned and constructed by an outside contractor. This included 100 campsites, facilities, roads, parking areas, pit toilets, and a campfire circle. The project was completed in October 1962, with final inspection made the following year. The improved facilities nearly doubled campground usage in 1963. A new amphitheater was completed during the summer of 1964.

The last major South Rim project was a new headquarters and visitor center area. Planning for this construction had been ongoing for years, but water availability and staff residences were two issues complicating progress. Once these facilities were completed in 1966, it encouraged year-round operations on the South Rim.

The earliest improvements on the North Rim were new signage and guard rails at Kneeling Camel Overlook and Big Island Overlook. The self-guided nature trail at Chasm View was developed in the summer of 1958. Improvements were made to the North Rim Road and campground area. Boundary designation and fencing to prevent grazing trespass started in 1962.

Black Canyon is a geologic wonder. The difficult and rugged nature of it has challenged and limited human influence from prehistoric to present day. Only the canyon rims, never the inner canyon, show evidence of human occupation. The known sites at Black Canyon of the Gunnison suggest human use for the past 9,000 years. Over time, different groups have visited and traveled through the area. Some came in search of a railroad route; others for water and ways to use it outside the canyon. Expeditions and subsequent engineering of the Gunnison Tunnel show the challenges and successes of development. Local support rallied for Black Canyon to become a place of recreation and conservation. Black Canyon of the Gunnison became a national monument in 1933 and was renamed as a national park in 1999. Park staff, aided by Civilian Conservation Corps workers, built trails, roads, campgrounds, and NPS buildings. Mission 66 projects completed during the 1960s also brought new life to the roads, scenic overlooks, and campgrounds. Learn about the people, places, and stories that have shaped Black Canyon's history, influence its present, and inform park managers of how to move into the future.

Black Canyon has more than 650 species of vascular plants. The park has vegetation communities that are both representative of the geographic region and unique within its boundaries. The park lies within the Dry Domain (climate classification) and supports montane (mountain), temperate, and semi-desert vegetation. Forests and shrublands are the dominant vegetation, as well as some grassland and rock outcrops.

The canyon rims are predominantly pinyon-juniper forests and scrub oak. Douglas-fir and Colorado blue spruce grow on the canyon’s north facing slopes. Some riparian vegetation, as well as scattered ponderosa pine, Utah juniper, and box elder, occur along the river at the canyon bottom. Gambel oak, serviceberry, and mountain mahogany are the dominant shrubs on the canyon rims and uplands. Some sagebrush and rabbitbrush are also present. Many wildflower species, blooming through spring and summer, are present in the uplands and inner canyon. The distribution of vegetation is driven by elevation, type of soil, geology, amount of sunlight, availability of water, and fire.

Ecoregions , or areas of similar ecosystems, converge near Black Canyon. The park is mostly within the Semiarid Benchlands and Canyonlands of the Colorado Plateau Ecoregion, but the canyon continues east into the Sedimentary Mid-Elevation Forests of the Southern Rockies Ecoregion. Diverse plant communities are found here due to the topographic variation and elevation differences in short distances, which affect temperature, sunlight, and water conditions. Unique habitats such as seeps, springs, riparian areas, and hanging gardens also exist. A small number of rare plant species are either known or suspected.

The Great Horned Owl ( Bubo virginianus ) is widespread across North America. Great horned owls are year-round residents at Black Canyon. These birds hunt rabbits and rodents on canyon rims at night. They can even take down larger prey such as falcons, ospreys, and other owls. Great Horned Owl is colored to camouflage with its surroundings - with light brown, dark brown, and white coloring. Their talons, legs, and feet are strong and can apply crushing pressure to prey. Their soft feathers help with both insulation in cold weather and dampening noise while they fly and hunt.

Mountain Bluebirds ( Sialia currucoides) share canyon rim habitat with owls but are daytime eaters of insects. Males have bright blue bodies, while females have gray bodies with blue wings. These birds nest in trees or artificial nest boxes. They are most often seen in spring and early summer when nesting and rearing their young. Their diet consists of insects caught either from perches or flycatching. Mountain Bluebirds can be defensive and competitive with other bird species over nest sites.

Peregrine Falcons ( Falco peregrinus) nest on ledges on canyon walls. These falcons have a blue-gray back and a grey or tan underside. Their wingspan can reach up to 3.5 feet (1.1 m) across. Peregrine Falcons prey on flying birds, swooping down on them as fast as 200 mph. Their balled-up claws can shatter prey’s bones. Falcons mostly feed on aerial-feeding swifts and swallows but also on jays and an occasional dove. Raptor closures are in effect from March 15 to July 15 to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Climbers should check climbing closures before recreating.

Plumbeous Vireo ( Vireo plumbeus ) is a small songbird commonly seen during summer in the Rocky Mountains. These birds are less than 6 inches (15 cm) long and similar sized to a sparrow. They are gray above, white below, and have white areas around small, black eyes. Plumbeous Vireo search for insects, their main food source, along tree branches. They are easier to spot during spring when males sing frequently. It prefers mixed conifer-deciduous woods for nesting sites.

Campgrounds at Black Canyon Black Canyon offers two campgrounds - one on each rim. There is also a campground at the bottom of the canyon called East Portal. Although accessed through the park, East Portal is within the boundary of Curecanti National Recreation Area. Hikers and kayakers may also camp in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison Wilderness after obtaining a Wilderness Use Permit (restrictions apply). Camping is allowed only in designated campgrounds. No overnight use is allowed along any park roads or trails, at overlooks, or in other developed areas. Cashless Operations and Reservations As of April 2025, Black Canyon's operations are cashless. Please make campground reservations in advance at Recreation.gov . First come, first served camping is limited. South Rim Campground: Sites available by reservation only, year-round. Reserve sites online at Recreation.gov. North Rim and East Portal campgrounds: All sites are first-come first-served, but payment MUST be submitted online using the Scan & Pay feature on Recreation.gov's mobile app. There is limited cell service or connectivity on site. Download the Recreation.gov app before entering the park to arrive prepared. Season Dates Campground Status / Availability Reservations? Scan & Pay? Daily Fee Sites Water South Rim Campground OPEN. Many sites and facilities were impacted by the 2025 South Rim Fire. A limited number of sites (25, all non-electric) have reopened for camping. These limited sites are now reservable on Recreation.gov . All South Rim water systems have been shut off for winter. Water is unavailable anywhere on the South Rim, including the campground. Please plan accordingly. NOTE: Due to effects of the 2025 South Rim Fire, some areas of the campground are closed to all access for safety and rehabilitation purposes. Be aware that windblown ash, soot, and other fire debris may be present in the campground at any time. Yes No $34 (electric) $20 (non-electric) 88 Seasonally North Rim Campground OPEN. All North Rim water systems have been shut off for winter. Water is unavailable anywhere on the North Rim, including the campground. Please plan accordingly. No Yes $20 13 Seasonally East Portal Campground OPEN (upper sites only). The East Portal water system has been shut off for winter. Drinking water is unavailable anywhere at East Portal, including the campground. Please plan accordingly. No Yes $20 15 Seasonally

Camping in the Wilderness Well-prepared and experienced individuals may choose to camp at the base of the inner canyon wilderness routes.

More and more, black bears visit the campgrounds in search of food. While black bear sightings are an exciting part of your trip, please remember that black bears are wild animals that should not be fed or approached. Black bears that become habituated to humans and human food will ultimately need to be removed or, in some cases, killed.

102 Elk Creek (GPS/physical address = 9800 Highway 347, Montrose, CO) Gunnison, CO 81230

Rim Rock Trail is a popular trail connecting the South Rim Campground and South Rim Visitor Center. It is rocky, contains stairs, and passes by steep drop-offs with views into Black Canyon. NPS Photo/Kat Connelly Hiking at Black Canyon Many trails pass by steep dropoffs, so be cautious and keep a close watch on children. From late fall through mid-spring, drinking water is NOT available in the park.

Hikers should be aware that limited cattle grazing is permitted on the North Rim. Please keep cattle gates closed should you encounter them. BE BEAR AWARE. Bears have made amazing efforts to obtain hikers' snacks. A bear that becomes habituated to humans and their food will ultimately need to be destroyed. Keep your backpack within arms reach at all times.

Many trails pass by steep dropoffs, so be cautious and keep a close watch on children. From late fall through mid-spring, drinking water is NOT available in the park. Hikers should be aware that limited cattle grazing is permitted on the North Rim. Please keep cattle gates closed should you encounter them.

BE BEAR AWARE. Bears have made amazing efforts to obtain hikers' snacks. A bear that becomes habituated to humans and their food will ultimately need to be destroyed. Keep your backpack within arms reach at all times. Check our Current Conditions page for trail conditions.